Part 1: Exploring Charleston and Ft. Sumter

20120403-04

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The Experience

Having traveled to the East Coast for business over the years, one of the things I REALLY hate is a odd schedules.  So, since we were fully in control of our fate, we made flight arrangements that would allow us to arrive while it was still light in Charleston.  Sadly, this required getting up at "oh dark thirty" for an early departure from San Diego, but given the time zone difference between the cities, there was no choice.  The flight went fine.  I have heard it said that "any flight that you can walk away from was a good flight" and by those standards, it was a good flight, poor food and cramped conditions notwithstanding.

The Photos

The photos below are what we saw.

Our plan was to be in Charleston sufficiently early to allow a real meal. We met that objective and once we offloaded our stuff at the hotel, we hit the bricks to walk to one of the many nice restaurants in the area.  Our choice was Blossom and it had great local dishes.  I had soft shell crab and Kathleen had trout.  The outside seating area was small, but a) they had outside seating; and b) the weather was nice enough to allow sitting outside comfortably.  It was a good dinner.

Next morning, we headed over to meet Jim and Michele.  Enroute, we passed this large church.  There are many churches in the downtown Charleston area.

We decided to do tourist things and one of the points of interest is Market Square.  This is a several-blocks-long covered area where local vendors sell their wares: knick-knacks, baskets, jewlery, etc.

Michele's parents were with us, so mobility was a factor.  We elected to opt for a carriage tour with a guide to get a better view of the local sights.  Above is one of the 20 carriages that operate on the streets of downtown Charleston.  The city limits the number of carraiges on the street to prevent intense traffic congestion with a lottery system.  And, they force the geographical distribution of the carriages by having them awarded a route to travel once they are fully loaded.  The driver does not know the route they will travel until they arrive at the checkpoint.  And, a new carriage cannot depart until one returns from a tour.  This was a somewhat odd arrangement, but it seemed to work ok.

On our walk to the carriage barn, we passed this gal washing her Percheron draft horse.  Dakota was big.  Really big.  Draft horses or draft beer; your choice.


Not surprisingly, the barn was an assembly line operation getting the tourists into and out of the carriages.  They used both horses and mules as motive power.

As we rolled past Church street, we got a view of one of the many big churches in the area.  A number of these were quite old, some dating back to the 1700s.  Charleston has what is referred to as the "seventy five year law" that forces the preservation of any building, good or bad, that is still standing after 75 years.  This generates some predictably uncomfortable situations for the property owners that insures (forces) the external appearance of the structures to be preserved.  More on this later.

This German Lutheran church had ornate French-style iron work gates.

Most of the churches had grave yards that were adjacent.

Most of the area that we saw was very tight quarters.  But, this place had a nice stone driveway.  Note the porch on the place on the left.

While the photo above is somewhat unnoteworthy, the story is more interesting.  The landmass of downtown Charleston grew over the years due to land fill and swamp reclaimation.  The house in the photo above was one of the first stone structures and was built in the late 1700s.  Nicely preserved, note the subsidence of the retaining wall.  At the time this house was constructed, it had a waterfront view.  Now, it is quite a distance from the water.

Many, if not most, of the houses that have historical status are wood.  Given the subtropical climate, rain, bugs, fungus and other issues, I shudder at the thought of the preservation committee forcing me to repaint my house frequently and always in the same color, no matter how hideous.  The pink was not so bad, but there were others that were more offensive.  Note the color of the window shutters - Charleston Green, a very frequent color.

Original hand carved wooden door and jam.

Another huge place that used to be waterfront property "back in the day".  The guide claimed that a Confederate submarine was washed ashore on the beach in  front of this place (now in the middle of the street where the photo was taken) and that it is still there today.

Some of the houses visible on the tour were huge.

This one was in great shape and had intricate wood railings and windows.

Note the details in the door and alcove.

Interestingly, these were military housing that recently became controlled by the seventy five year law.

In the distance, we could see the fringe of the local college area and one of the frat houses.

A large fire in dowtown left swaths of new and old, controlled buildings right next to one another.

The theater is a controlled structure and is frozen in time, for good or bad.

The carriage went past the confederate museum at the end of the market.

After the tour and lunch, we decided to take the ferry to Ft. Sumter.  As the boat left the dock, we got this view of the USS Yorktown, now a floating museum.

The local navy doing maneuvers in the bay.

The boat tour gave us a nice view of one of the large bridges in the Charleston area.

In addition to being a tourist town, Charlestown also has a large harbor area that receives both automobiles and container cargo.  The ship above is a car carrier that is just completing the unloading process.

From the tour boat, we got a glimpse of one of the other harbor defenses that were left over from the civil war.

Our first view of Ft. Sumter, the starting point for hostilities of the civil war.

Despite the obvious explanation, there is a story here.  Several stories, in fact.  The first story is something that we were confronted with repeatedly, which is something that I jokingly refer to as "FFA".  No, not Future Farmers of America, but rather Fantastically Fat Asses.  There were plenty of them, waddling their way down the sidewalks.  Men, women, children of all ages, of every ethnicity, everywhere we looked.  So, this was a refreshing sight.  The second story is despite both Kathleen and I seeing her repeatedly from every angle, we could not agree on her age (Kathleen guessed 16, I guessed 18).  Nor could we determine if the man to her right was her father, which would have been pretty odd, or her boyfriend, which would have been even odder given that he appeared to be in his mid-thirties.  The mystery was never solved, but I did appreciate the view.

One of the many cannons on display at Ft. Sumter.

The main visitor's center and museum was painted this ugly color called "Charleston Green", which is not really green at all.  This was the color used to paint old cannons and was really ten parts black and one part yellow.

Some of the old cannons were very impressive in both their mass and the size of the bore.

Another one of the large cannons.  This one called a Parrot after the inventor.  It hurled a 200 lb projectile and featured a rifled barrel.  Look closely at the photo above and you will see the gal with the skirt at the top center of the photo.  This was just a happy coincidence and I only discovered her in the photo when it was examined on my laptop.

Charleston, SC is a large, active seaport and gets ships of many kinds.  While we were on the top of Ft. Sumter, we spotted this car-carrier ship leaving the channel.  We had seen it earlier in port discharging its cargo of new cars to the staging area at the port.

Ah, the other side of the story.  I saw plenty of FFAs all day and this one was reasonably representative of their "scope".  We saw one at our lunch spot, a man, whose gut was so big it hung down between his legs and hit the bar stool underneath.  By that standard, this one is a ballerina.

A container ship putting out to sea after discharging cargo at the Port of Charleston.


I am not much of an organized tour person, but I have to admit that the commentary  from our carriage guide was both informative as well as humorous.  We learned a lot about the area and it raised my opinion of what the locals had to endure to comply with the seventy five year ruling.  I am just glad that my place is not subjected to that rule. 

After our day, we headed back to our respective hotels to freshen up and then met again for dinner at a local French restaurant.

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Photos and Text Copyright Bill Caid 2012, all rights reserved.
For your enjoyment only, not for commercial use.