Part 8: Nosara to Playa Santa Teresa

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The Trip

We spent spent our last night at Villa Mango B&B.  This is a great place, but my predominant memory will be me vomiting up whatever it was that made me sick.  I still don't know the culprit, but I am sure it was not the liquor I consumed meeting with a fellow mogger.  While that contributed to some early-morning distress, it did not cause the balance of my symptoms.  But happily, the worst passed after about 6 hours and I got a reasonable night's rest.  Next morning, we loaded and headed out toward Santa Teresa near the end of the Nicoya Peninsula.

We knew that the road would be lots of dirt, but it was a really rough ride -- Baja rough.  And it included a number of jungle river crossings just for good measure.

The Photos

The photos below are what we saw.

Rick Chalmers came by the B&B to say adios.  From left to right: Jo (the owner), Rick, and Bill.

We passed a number of really nice bays on our route, this one being Playa Pelada.

Our little rental 4x4 has been taking a thrashing.  In fact, when I closed the hood from checking engine fluids, the left plastic cover fell off.  But, so far it has done the job without complaint.


Along our route we passed this Mercedes 1314 truck.  This truck is a 1988, same year as Thor, but is a 13-ton gross as opposed to Thor at 10 ton.  These guys had nothing but good things to say about the truck, having owned it for about 5 years.  "No hay problemas".  There have been no problems.

They were happy to show me under the hood, so I showed them photo of Thor.  We bid them Adios and headed on down the road.

They quickly overtook me when I stopped at our first river crossing.  This was NOT on my expected menu with a small rental car.  I watched them carefully noting their path and how far up the wheels the water came.

After the truck finished its crossing, we had oncoming traffic, so I got another chance to check the depth of the water.  We decided we could do it without getting stuck, so we saddled up, put it into 4x4 and headed into the water.

Many miles down the road we came to Playa Carrillo with a beach and nice palm trees.

The trees next to the beach had these funky seed pods with a fuzzy coating that carried the seeds away on the breeze.

Further on we stopped at a bridge that crossed a small river and spotted these odd trees.  The trees were planted and used as fence posts.

The old foot bridge had collapsed.  I think it would have been exciting to use in the rainy season as you surely could not cross the river when it was running strong.

About 2pm we stopped for lunch at a really nice roadhouse in the middle of nowhere.  The food was good.

The furniture was hand made of slabs of tropical hardwoods.

The road ascended the cliffs and we followed the ocean for many miles.  The road was narrow with tight turns.

Yikes, another river crossing.

On a number of the water crossings the exit from the river was not that obvious and we nearly took the wrong path.

Yet another water crossing.

This one had a pool of unknown depth, but we forged ahead.

This happy crew passed us in the mountains.

After 6 hours of ass-busting washboarded road we were rewarded with a nice room in Santa Teresa.  We just found this place as we drove by and were lucky enough to get a room.

As usual, we seem to end up coming into places the hard way.  Santa Teresa is a surfer's paradise and there were plenty of gringos there, thus the presence of a nice hotel.  Many nice hotels actually, some over $800 a night.  Ours was $120 cash.

The hotel had a small pizza restaurant and we found out later it was the best pizza in town.  The pool was right next to the restaurant.

Kathleen and I usually try to take the "path less traveled", but in this case it was a big bite to chew.  The river crossings were totally unexpected, but we were grateful the rivers were low and therefore the road was passable.

From here, we are heading to the national park at Manuel Antonio on the mainland.



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